John keats



PATENTED'MAR. 1, 1904.

J. KEATS.

BOOT OR SHOE. I

APPLIOATION FILED OGT.16. 1901.

N0 MODEL.

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Patented March 1, 1904."

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN KEATS, OF BAGNALL, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR TO PHOENIX BOOT MACHINERY COMPANY, LIMITED, OF STREET, ENGLAND, A CORPO- RATION OF GREAT BRITAIN.

BOOT OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 753,495, dated March 1, 1904.

Application filed. October 16, 1901. Serial No. 78,792. (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN KEATS, a subject of the King of Great Britain, residing at Bagnall, in the county of Stafford, England, have invented new and useful Improvements Relating to Shoe Manufacture, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention has reference to the manufacture of what are known as turn shoes, which are lasted and sewed inside out and subsequently turned the proper way.

The improvement consists in certain provision, hereinafter described, for the maintenance of the contour of the upper around the sole edge until the shoe is quite worn out and for the protection of the seam connecting the upper and the sole.

In manufacturing turn shoes it is usual when the still more usual channeled sole is not employed to prepare the sole by forming around it on the flesh side a rib a little distance from the edge. To this rib is applied the upper, which is lasted and sewed to the rib inside out. The surplus edges of the upper and sole-rib are then cut OE, and the residue is hammered or flattened down as much as possible, after which the shoe is turned the proper way and relasted. The shoe thus produced, however, frequently turns out badly, as the upper draws on the stitches in an upward direction, distorting the contour of the shoe and even tearing away from the sole more quickly than is at all desirable. A remedy has according to this invention been found for these defects in trimming the rib and the edges of the upper accurately to the proper degree and then forcing the remaining portion of the rib outward, so as to cover the stitches and the double edges of the upper and imprison them between two portions of the sole. In this way a firm line of support is formed within the shoe, against which the upper bears and from which it obtains support in a lateral direction.

In the accompanying drawings will be seen diagrams illustrating the several steps in the process of manufacturing turn shoes according to this invention.

Figure 1 shows in cross-section a sole prepared for the formation of the rib. Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the rib formed. Fig. 3 shows in cross-section the'upper, inside out, lasted and sewed to the rib. Fig. 4: is a similar view showing the rib trimmed. Fig. 5 is again a similar view showing the rib pressed outward on the stitches, and Fig. 6 shows the upper turned and relasted.

a is the sole slit around the edge, as shown in Fig. 1, to make a lip 5.. This lip is reinforced by working or pressing up the inner surface of the material of the sole at some distance within its edge into a rib 0, (see Fig. 2,) which constitutes the-principal feature of my invention. d is the upper sewed to the rib c by the stitches 6. After the lasting and sewing, which operations can be performed simultaneously on the last, the lip Z) being used as a convenient purchase for the presser-foot in feeding the work, the lip Z) and so much of the rib c as is necessary is trimmed ofi, care being taken to leave just t-he'right height to cover the stitches and turned-in upper when the rib 0 is pressed outward, as in Fig. 5. The forcing outward of the rib 0 having been accomplished and the shoe turned it will be seen on reference to Fig. 6 that the rib 0, overlying the line of stitching and the turnedin upper, forms a lateral support all round inside the shoe, which prevents the upper drawing on the stitches in an upward direction. The result is that a shoe is produced which will always maintain its contour no matter how it may be worn, the tendency ofthe Wearers weight being to keep the rib spread out, thus preserving the shape of the shoe and helping to prevent the stitches from drawing, which is likely to happen when the pull thereon is directly in an upward direction.

In a felt sole the slitting of the edge is generally unnecessary.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

In a turn shoe, the combination with the sole, a lip arranged along the edge of the sole and a rib pressed from the inner surface of JOHN KEATS.

Witnesses:

FRANK DYER CHESTER, RAYMOND WILLEY. 

